Asparagus Pacific Challenger F1

SKU: V8388.100sdsW

Pacific Challenger F1 is a hybrid asparagus bred here in New Zealand for heavy, reliable crops of unifor...

Pacific Challenger F1 is a hybrid asparagus bred here in New Zealand for heavy, reliable crops of uniform spears, with resistance to phytophthora. It was developed for commercial production, so home gardeners get the benefit of a variety selected for strong yields and dependable performance.

For anyone planning an asparagus bed, choosing the right variety matters. This is a crop you plant once and pick from for many years, so it makes sense to start with plants bred for productivity and disease resistance. Phytophthora is a soil-borne disease that can cause root and crown rot, and having resistance built in gives your bed a stronger start, particularly in gardens where drainage isn't perfect.

Imagine a spring routine of heading out to the garden every day or two to cut fresh, even-sized spears, enough to steam, grill or toss through a pasta, and still have plenty left to share. That's what a well-established bed of Pacific Challenger can bring.

Each packet contains 12 seeds, ideal for starting a small, high-performing bed or adding to an existing one.

Growing Asparagus Pacific Challenger F1 from Seed

Asparagus is grown in two stages. Young plants first spend a year building their crowns (the root system that sends up the spears), then they're moved to a permanent bed.

Stage one: sowing and the seedling bed

Sow from August to November, 10mm deep, into seed raising mix in pots or cells. With only 12 seeds, sowing one per cell lets you give each seedling the best start.
Warmth is key. Asparagus germinates best at a soil temperature of 21 to 29°C, so use a heat mat or warm indoor spot.
Soaking the seed in warm water overnight before sowing can help speed germination.
Seedlings appear in 21 to 28 days.
Plant young seedlings into a nursery bed and allow them to grow for a full year to develop strong crowns.

Stage two: planting crowns

Once the ferns have died back in autumn, lift the crowns and plant them out in a sunny, well-drained position.
Space plants 30cm apart, with 120cm between rows.
Keep the bed weed-free and well prepared, as it will be in place for many years.

Harvesting begins in the second or third season after transplanting. Keep your first harvest light, then let the remaining spears grow into ferns to feed the crowns. Allow the ferns to die back naturally in autumn before cutting them down, and mulch the bed each year with a nutrient-rich mulch.

NZ $6.00

professional

perennial

hybrid

expert-gardener

Size:

12 seeds

Asparagus Pacific Challenger F1

NZ $6.00

Botanical Name

Asparagus officinalis

Lifecycle

Perennial

Sowing Time

August - November

Preferred Growing Method

Transplant

Preferred Growing Conditions

Hardy. Prefers Cooler Temperatures.

Soil Temperature for Optimum Germination

21-29°C

Days to Germination

21-28

Days to Maturity

Second/third season from transplant

Sowing Depth

10mm

Plant Spacing

30cm within row, 120cm between rows

Seed per gram (Approximately)

Germination

89% 5/25 Supplier

Sowing Time

Sowing time refers to the optimum time for sowing seed of a variety to encourage strong and vigorous growth. Whilst some varieties may be able to be sown outside the range suggested, they will generally perform best when sown in the approximate seasonal ranges provided.

A lot of seeds need consistent warmth to help them germinate. The best way to achieve this is to sow at the right time. By sowing in season when the conditions are optimum for seed germination you are increasing your chances of success. Slight bottom heat, approximately 20°C, can speed germination of many varieties.

To reference the best sowing times for a variety, we use sow numbers as detailed here:

Early Spring
Late Spring & Early Summer
Late Summer & Early Autumn

Growing Method

TRANSPLANT

Containers: Seeds can be sown in pretty much any container, tray or pot. Ensure the container has drainage holes in the bottom.
Mix Preparation: Use a good quality, seed raising mix and fill the container to within 2cm from the rim. Always use a commercially formulated seed raising mix to ensure sterility of the growing medium which will prevent possible infection of your seedlings. Use the palm of your hand to press down on the mix to create a firm surface.
Sowing: Sow seed evenly providing some space between seeds. Lightly cover the seed with seed raising mix, a sieve may be useful. Depth should be no more than twice the diameter of the seed. In the case of very fine seed no covering is needed. Use the palm of your hand to press down on the mix to create a firm surface.
Watering: Water the tray either by a watering can or hose using a very fine spray or place the tray into a tray of water and leave to soak until the surface appears glossy.
Environment: A piece of glass with a few thicknesses of paper on top may be placed over the container to prevent the mix surface from drying out. Turn glass daily so that the dry side is downwards. Cling film or recycled clear plastic meat trays can also be used. Check daily for signs of germination and remove covering as soon as seedlings appear, exposing the tender plants gradually to the full sunlight.
Seedling Growth: If growing on a window sill, turn the container every day to maintain an even growth and to keep the seedlings from stretching towards the light. When large enough to handle, transplant seedlings into a suitable container approximately 4cm apart. Harden off plants gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions before planting in their final growing location.
Moisture Management: Keep trays moist but not drenched to ensure germination and rapid growth. Overhead watering can be used initially but once seeds germinate and a leaf canopy establishes it is best to water from below by soaking the trays in water to avoid the development of diseases. When watering overhead, water earlier in the day to prevent having wet leaves overnight when the conditions are not as suitable for drying. The mix within the tray should appear dark and not brown to indicate appropriate moisture levels.

Annual

A plant that completes its entire life cycle (germinates, grows a plant, flowers, produces seed, dies) in one season. It may self-sow, thereby giving the impression of being perennial. Most annuals will flower 60 to 75 days from sowing.

Hardy Annual

An annual that does not need to be germinated indoors but can be sown direct into its growing position in the garden in spring and is tolerant of frost.

Tender Annual

An annual that is frost tender and can be germinated indoors. Sowing direct or planting outdoors must not occur until all danger of frost has passed (also known as a Half-Hardy Annual).

Biennial
A plant that completes its entire life cycle in two years - growing in the first, reproducing and dying in the second. Typically, but not always, producing flowers only in the second year.

Perennial

A plant that can live for more than two years, surviving the winter and flowering each year from the second season. Perennials may flower within 90 days of sowing in their first season but will more typically flower in their second season.

Hardy Perennial

A perennial that is frost tolerant.

Tender Perennial

A perennial that is frost tender.

Hardy

A plant that will survive frost.

Tender

A plant that will not survive frost.

Bolting

Going to seed. Premature formation of a seed stalk, may be due to plant stress.

Botanical Name

The formal scientific name conforming to the International Code of Nomenclature for plants. Identifies the genus and species to which the plant belongs useful in distinguishing plants uniquely.

Cotyledon

The seed leaves or first leaves that emerge from a germinated seed, different in form from the later true leaves.

True Leaves

The leaves that emerge after the cotyledons which are indicative of the true form
of the plant’s leaves.

Determinate

Growth stopped by development of terminal flower buds. A dwarf/bush variety which sets fruit in a concentrated period.

Indeterminate

Growth continuing indefinitely when leaf buds form at the tip of the growth. These varieties need to be staked and continue to set fruit until frost.

Heirloom

A variety that is older than two generations (50 years). Can also be referred to as “Heritage” and is always an open pollinated variety selected for garden performance (flavour, long harvest).

Hybrid

A plant resulting from a cross between two parent plants to give a genetically superior plant i.e. improved disease resistance, better vigour, more uniform harvest. Normally, seed saved from hybrids does not grow true to type.

F1 - The first generation of such a cross. Denoted in the name of the variety.

F2 - The second generation of such a cross etc.

Open Pollinated

Natural cross between plants of the same variety. Refers to non-hybrid seeds or plants.

Scarification

The practice of scratching, sanding, notching or nicking the seed coat to assist germination. Used for seed of species that have very hard seed coats.

Stratification

The process of chilling seeds to promote germination by breaking dormancy. Can be artificially carried out by placing seed in your fridge. Follow specific instructions online for the period of chilling time.

Surface Sow

Seed that requires light to germinate. Sow seed on the surface. Press down into the soil. Keep moist.

Germination

Seed germination is the process by which a seed sprouts and begins to grow into a plant. It involves rehydrating the seed, activation of metabolic processes and the emergence of a young seedling from the seed coat. This process is triggered by factors like temperature, water and in some cases light.

Viability

The ability of seeds to germinate.

Vigour

The speed and the strength of the plant to establish well.

Delivery

Courier delivery by NZ Post.

Delivery available only to valid New Zealand
addresses.

The appropriate delivery charge will be applied at checkout.

Delivery charges are subject to change without notice.

You can track the status of your shipment via the link provided in your order confirmation email or by logging into your account online.

Click n Collect

Seed can only be collected from our warehouse at 189 Wharawhara Rd, Katikati.

Select Click n Collect at the checkout.

Click n Collect does not apply for collection at any Kings Seeds stockists nationwide.

Returns

Seed or Products can only be returned with authorisation from Kings Seeds.

Any request for the return of Seed or Products must be made within 14 days of delivery to info@kingsseeds.co.nz

Returned Seed or Products will only be accepted if unopened and in the same condition as when supplied and a record of your purchase can be found.

The Customer shall pay all costs in relation to return of the Seed or Products unless it is deemed a warranty issue.

Please see our Terms & Conditions of Sale for further information on our Returns Policy.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you grow asparagus from seed?

Yes. Asparagus grows well from seed and is a cost-effective way to plant a whole bed. It does take more patience than planting crowns, as seedlings spend their first year building strong roots before being moved to their permanent spot.

How long does asparagus take to grow from seed?

Allow a few years. Seedlings grow in a nursery bed for their first year, then the crowns are transplanted into a permanent bed. Harvesting begins in the second or third season after transplanting. Once established, an asparagus bed can keep producing for 10 to 15 years.

Why are my asparagus seeds not germinating?

The most common reason is cold soil. Asparagus seed needs a warm soil temperature (21 to 29°C) and can be slow to come up in cool conditions. A heat mat or warm indoor spot makes a big difference. Be patient too, as seedlings can take up to four weeks to appear.

Is it better to grow asparagus from seed or crowns?

Crowns save a year, but seed is much more affordable and lets you raise a larger number of plants. Growing from seed also means you can keep only the strongest crowns and remove any poor performers before planting out your permanent bed.

When do I transplant asparagus crowns?

After a full year in the nursery bed, wait until the ferns have died back naturally in autumn, then lift the crowns and plant them into their permanent position while they're dormant.

Where is the best place to grow asparagus?

Choose a sunny spot with very free-draining soil. Sandy or stony soils are ideal. Avoid heavy or wet ground, as asparagus crowns can rot if they sit in water. As the bed will be in place for many years, pick a spot where it won't need to be moved.

When can I start picking asparagus?

Harvesting begins in the second or third season after transplanting. Keep your first harvest light, picking only a few spears, then let the rest grow into ferns. As the bed matures, you can pick for longer each spring.

Why should I stop picking asparagus and leave the ferns?

The ferns that grow after harvest feed the crowns and build up energy for the following year's spears. Picking for too long weakens the plants, so stop harvesting each season and let the ferns grow.

What do I do with asparagus ferns?

Leave the ferns to die back naturally in autumn, then cut them down once they've turned yellow or brown. Apply a nutrient-rich mulch over the bed each year to feed the crowns and help keep weeds down.

How do I look after an asparagus bed?

Keep the bed well weeded, as asparagus doesn't like competition. Mulch every year with a nutrient-rich mulch, stop harvesting in time for the ferns to grow, and remove any weak or poor-performing crowns. With good care, a bed can produce for 10 to 15 years.